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Introduction |
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NORMALLY UNSEEN AND UNKNOWN ROUTINES OF THE WINEMAKER "Winemaking is a major exercise in chemistry and microbiology." This was the message that well-known Australian winery engineer Ron Potter brought to Carsin. In the string of faxes that followed after Potter returned, he repeated this message, which it would be impossible for us to forget. It remains an integral part of our winemaking philosophy. Although we feel that controlling the processes of wine's evolution are so important, we like to think at the same time that the more we can leave the wine to evolve naturally, the more it will retain its authenticity. It will still take time before we can say which winemaking processes and philosophies we should adopt from Australia and the New World and which we should avoid. At the best properties in traditional winegrowing regions, the microflora of the cellars and vineyards are virtually self-regulating. In other words, at these properties, the operative yeast and bacteria cultures "look after themselves", to transform the grapes into wine worthy of standards which have evolved over many centuries. We do not trust that the nature will necessarily produce wines which we know (or think that we know) our customers (think they) like! New World winemakers, on the other hand, work on the assumption that, natural conditions have not developed in their countries. To produce wines similar to those in the traditional "Grand Cru properties", then all technical and scientific knowledge should be put to full use, and all possible parameters should be mastered. Some people say that wine is only half-spoilt vinegar... The routine procedures that the cellarmaster oversees are mainly concerned with storing the wine under the best possible conditions. At Carsin, this means controlling the temperatures (there is an ideal temperature at each stage in the ageing process), and avoiding oxidation by using nitrogen and carbon dioxide gases. The barrels are topped up and tanks which are not full, are blanketed with carbon dioxide. When the wine is transferred, the receiving tank is once again filled with CO2. The procedures outlined above must be adhered to at all times. The wines are closely monitored as they evolve, particularly the level of sulphur dioxide. The amount of "free SO2" in wine can easily be determined by simple laboratory analysis. Even so, all wines need to be assessed by tasting and smelling, which is done on a regular basis. Among other things laboratory tests can also reveal:
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